When a game critic agrees to an embargo, he or she merely says that in exchange for early access to a game, he or she will agree not to publish impressions ahead of a particular date. This allows the game to be played and covered in the timely manner the audience prefers.
A standard embargo is in no way objectionable. No critic should take heat for accepting one, because it allows coverage on or before the game's date of release. This works to everyone's advantage. No opinions are censored.
If the critic instead REFUSES to accept the embargo, the outcome is simple: he or she doesn't get early access to the game and can't provide impressions--which may be favorable or may not--ahead of the its release. A review will not likely arrive until several days AFTER release.
In other words, a critic who accepts a standard embargo is doing his or her job as intended, and as readers should expect and appreciate. There is no transgression, no reason to regard that agreement as working counter to consumer interests. The embargo is a service to readers!
With all of that said, an NDA (non-disclosure agreement) is a different beast. It comes up less frequently, except with major releases, and each NDA may warrant scrutiny, depending on terms unique to it that COULD impact editorial.
Typically, a more basic NDA might indicate that a critic can't write about the game past a certain point, or discuss certain gameplay systems, or post video from the review build (which may not be final and may create genuine misimpressions) ahead of a finalized version.
As you can imagine, the NDA could prevent the critic from writing naturally about the game. Some publishers may simply have an earnest desire to prevent spoilers. Others might wish to hide a potentially significant element of the game that doesn't work as intended or advertised.
In the case of an NDA, the benefit to readers/consumers is not necessarily as clear. Any critic or editor who accepts an NDA needs to consider carefully, especially if the NDA is restrictive. No video posted until a week ahead of release? Probably fine. Can't talk about X? Iffy!
Sorry for the thread, but responses to other posts I have seen on this topic today tell me there are a lot of people who still don't know or appreciate the realities of how embargoes and NDAs work or realize there are differences. So... now you know, if you didn't before? I hope!